Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist: Gems, Beads, Jewelry Making and more
Jewelry Show Guide

FEATURE STORY


Patricia MadejaÍs Spinning Aquamarines and Citrines Bracelet

 

Patricia Madeja’s Spinning Aquamarines and Citrines Bracelet of 18K gold with approximately 25 cts. each of Brazilian citrine and Brazilian aquamarine. The cast and fabricated gold frames are hinged for flexibility; the stones spin on pins. The bracelet is reversible. 81/8" x 7/8" x 3/4". Photos: Ralph Gabriner.

With all due gravity, pomp, and dignity . . . oh, who are we kidding? With excitement, enthusiasm, and open pride, we at Lapidary Journal unveil the winners of our second annual Jewelry Arts Awards competition. We know our readers, and know the level of creativity, talent, and technical skill they possess, so it wasn’t a surprise to see the quality of the entries we received — all 224 of them, in six separate categories, from all over the world.

Luckily, it didn’t fall to us to select the few from the many; that task fell to our distinguished panel of judges, leaders in the jewelry field, and certainly well qualified to make the call. In our judges we trusted (see “Our 2003 Judges,” below), and they came through as expected –– brilliantly –– rating entrants on the basis of overall design, visual appeal and impact, originality, and execution.

More work by our winning designers is featured in the Lapidary Journal Designer Gallery section!

The diversity of the designs submitted was exciting, and proof positive (if proof was needed) that the jewelry design field is anything but predictable or safe. The sheer number of different techniques used by our winners reads like an encyclopedia of jewelry design. Stones were cut and inlaid, bezel-set, transformed into beads and suspended on wire, and embedded in pearls. Metal of all stripe –– copper, silver, bronze, gold, and stainless steel –– was formed, cast, fabricated, chased, braided, and reticulated.

No one style of jewelry or artistic approach dominated the field; instead, our roster of winners reflects exactly what Lapidary Journal strives to serve, the endless invention and range of contemporary jewelry makers. Winners ranged from the bold lines and striking colors of Valerie Jo Coulson’s Heaven and Earth bracelet, to Jody Petersen’s organic, earthy brooch, to the delicate, precise lines of Hyun Jee Suh’s Ground Berry earrings and Russell Trusso’s exuberant Chrysanthemum brooch. Designs that show a strong mechanical influence, such as Geoffrey Giles’ Trestle Study #1 bracelet, are joined by pieces with mechanics that work and celebrate a sense of play, like Mary Lewis’ delightful Whack-A-Mole Ring.

And our Grand Prize winner? Mechanics and ethereal aesthetics blend in Patricia Madeja’s striking bracelet, set with aquamarines and citrines that spin on their axes, lending the piece a constant sense of motion and color.

So, to all those who entered, we extend our thanks. To this year’s winners, we offer our congratulations. And to those who are interested in jewelry design and making their own pieces, we extend our invitation — to enter the 2004 Lapidary Journal Jewelry Arts Awards. Entry forms can be found on page 33, and are also available for download online here. And maybe next September, your design will be gracing our cover!


Jewelry Arts 2003 Winners

Best of Competition:
Spinning Aquamarines and Citrines Bracelet , Patricia Madeja


Rings

First Place: Boat Ring, Alison Brunson
Second Place:
Whack-a-Mole Ring #2, Mary Lewis

Boat Ring by Allison Brunson

First Place, Bracelet: Alison Brunson's Boat Ring, an elaborate construction of sterling silver, 18K gold plate, and casting resin. 2-1/2" x 1-3/4" x 1/2". Photo: David Egan.

Whack a Mole Ring by Mary Lewis

Mary Lewis Second Place, Bracelet:
Whack-a-Mole Ring #2, by Mary Lewis, of sterling silver and stainless steel. When the crank is turned, each pin pops up and falls back down in sequence; the small door in front opens so that the working gears are visible. 1-1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2". Photo: David Egan.

Bracelets

First Place: Trestle Study #1, Geoffrey D. Giles
Second Place:
Heaven and Earth, Valerie Jo Coulsen

Geoffrey Giles' Trestle Study Bracelet
Geoffrey GilesFirst Place, Bracelet: Geoffrey D. Giles’ Trestle Study #1, of 18K yellow gold, 14K white gold, .18 tcw. diamonds, and .18 tcw. black diamonds. 1/2" x 8-3/4" x 1/4". The clasp is a keyed, lockable closure that fully integrates into the design when closed. Photo: Taylor Dabney.

Valerie Jo Coulsen's Heaven and Earth bracelet looks out at us with its blue eyes
Valerie Jo Coulsen Second Place, Bracelet:
Valerie Jo Coulson’s constructed and inlaid Heaven and Earth bracelet of 18K gold, sterling silver, opal, turquoise, sugilite, jasper, black jade, and pristine. Photo: Curtis Haldy Photography.

Rings

First Place: Robot Sam & Tools, Joanna Gollberg
Second Place:
Stick Pearl and Diamond Necklace, Takayusu Mizuno

Joanna Gollberg's Robot Sam & Tools

Joanna GollbergFirst Place: Joanna Gollberg’s Robot Sam & Tools is an elaborate construction of nickel and sterling silver and copper. The robot is a pendant with all movable parts; the small tools are scatter pins which can be worn to accompany the robot, “in case he needs some tweaking,” in the words of Gollberg. When not being worn, the pendant hangs on a stand, which has a small drawer in the base to store the tools. Pendant: 6" x 3/4"; stand 7" x 1-1/2" x 2". Photo: Taylor Dabney.

Takayasu Mizuno's stick pearl and diamond necklace

Takayasu Mizuno Second Place: Takayasu Mizuno’s stick pearl and diamond necklace, of 18K gold and dioxide silver. 2-1/2" x 1" x 1/4". Photo: Ralph Gabriner.


Pins & Brooches

First Place: Nabakov's Dozenita, Jody Petersen
Second Place:
Chrysanthemum Brooch, Russell Trusso

Nabakov's Dozenita by Jody Petersen

Jody PetersenFirst Place: Jody Petersen’s Nabokov’s Dozenita of torch-fired vitreous enamel on hand-formed copper, set in hand-fabricated sterling silver and 22K and 24K gold. The enamel has 25-35 layers, each requiring its own firing. 5-1/2" x 2" x 1". Photo: George Post.

Chrysanthemum Brooch

Russell Trusso Second Place: Chrysanthemum Brooch, by Russell Trusso, made of freshwater and South Sea pearls, drilled and mounted on gold “spikes,” then framed by hand-chased 18K gold leaves. Approximately 2" in diameter. Photo: Hap Sakwa.

 

Earrings

First Place: Ground Berry Earrings, Hyun Jee Suh
Second Place:
South Sea Pearl & Diamond Earrings, Russell Trusso

Hyun Jee Suh's ground berry earrings

First Place: Ground Berry Earrings, by Hyun Jee Suh,
of sterling silver and keum-boo with pearls. 0.5" x .9". Photo: David Egan.

Russell Trusso's south sea pearl and diamond earrings

Second Place: Russell Trusso created these earrings by embedding 20 tcw. diamonds into South Sea and freshwater pearls, and setting them in 18K gold. The leaves are hand-chased, the cord is braided gold. Approximately 2.2" long. Photo: Hap Sakwa.


Miscellaneous

First Place: Autumnessence: Transformation, Jan Mandel
Second Place:
Taos, Eric Dahlberg

Jan Mandel's hair catch that turns into an evening bagJan Mandel's Evening Bag

Jan MandelFirst Place: Jan Mandel’s Autumnessence Transformation, a “transformation piece” that can shift from a hair catch to an evening bag with brooch and slide accent. 18K yellow and red gold, carved drusy quartz. Hair catch: 6" x 4-1/2" x 3-1/2"; evening bag: 8-3/4" x 4-1/2" x 3-1/2". Photo: FXP — London.

 

Taos Belt Buckle by Ed Dahlberg

Ed Dahlberg Second Place: Taos — Outrageous belt buckle and tip by Eric Dahlberg, of sterling silver, reticulated silver, bronze, and picture agate. Dahlberg says, “I’m trying to do with metal and stones what Dave Brubeck does with music!” Approximately 3-1/2" x 2". Photo: Eric Dahlberg.



our esteemed judges
MICHAEL GOOD
Good has explored and developed the anticlastic raising technique into a signature look with a fresh approach to jewelry construction. A primarily self-taught jeweler and sculptor, he has been a goldsmith and teacher since 1969, teaching in North America and Europe. Good’s distinctive design approach, contributions to education, and his financially successful business command respect within the jewelry community.
CINDY EDELSTEIN
The founder and president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, a marketing/publishing company specializing in designer jewelry, Edelstein has created the Design Center at the JCK Shows, the Designer’s Live Auction at the JCK Show Las Vegas, the byDESIGN designer pavilion at the AGTA Tucson GemFairs, the Designer Day conference program, the Future of Design jewelry scholarship foundation, and globalDESIGN, her own designer trade show. Edelstein also helps to educate designers via seminars, workshops and private consultations. She presently serves as vice president of National Women’s Jewelry Association.
ALAN REVERE
An award-winning designer, and jewelry educator, Revere is the author of Ring Repair, Professional Goldsmithing, The Art of Jewelry Making, and other instructional books, articles, and videotapes for goldsmiths and jewelers. In 1979, Revere established the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco’s historic jewelry center.

More work by our winning designers is featured in the Lapidary Journal Designer Gallery section!

For information on entering your jewelry in the next competition, click here!


 

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