forged platinum ring Forged Platinum Ring
by Jurgen J. Maerz
Intermediate project.

This project has many advantages for the jeweler with even a little experience working with platinum, as it demonstrates platinum's malleability, and employs a high-temperature soldering technique.

Editor's note: To learn more about working with platinum, see “Going Platinum,” in the July 2000 Lapidary Journal.

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Jurgen J. Maerz is a certified Master Bench Jeweler. He is Director of Technical Education at Platinum Guild International USA, www.preciousplatinum.com.

TOOLBOX
  • Torch that uses either propane/oxygen, natural gas/oxygen, or hydrogen/oxygen (I used a Hoke torch with natural gas/oxygen).
    Warning: Do not use acetylene while working with platinum.
  • Soldering surface - I used the back of a Wesco dish, but any fused silica or alumina block will do. Be sure not to use a charcoal block, as carbon will contaminate your metal.
  • Safety goggles with a #5 or #6 rating
  • Soldering pick, if desired, made of Tungsten
  • Set of files
  • Sandpaper stick and assorted silicon wheels
  • Jewelers' saw with blades
  • Ring mandrel
  • Bench block or bench anvil
  • Bow-closing pliers
  • Hammer (I used a chasing hammer)
  • Assorted polishing wheels (brush, felt, buff, and an inside ring)
  • Stone-setting burr
  • Platinum polishing compounds (I use 800-grit for the first finishing after the sandpaper, then 1500-grit, then 4000-grit, followed by a final polishing compound of 8000-grit for luster)
  • 41 flat graver
  • Flat bezel pusher or setting punch
  • 3mm x 3mm piece of square platinum stock, 2" long
  • 1/2" x 1/2" piece of 20-gauge platinum stock (Pt900, Platinum Iridium)
  • 1700 platinum solder
  • 1500 platinum solder
  • 1/4-carat diamond
  • Flexible-shaft machine
For information on supplies, please see the Annual Buyers' Directory. Always ask for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for any materials you buy, which will give you reactivity, health hazard, and safe handling data.

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