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Begin by making a copy of the template on white paper. Glue the template onto a manila file folder, then cut out the template. *****
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Open the wringer by pulling appart the handle frames, then insert the tip of the silver piece at about a 45° angle from the outside edge of the corrugation rollers. Slightly press down on the handle to create an indentation in the metal — not a lot of pressure is needed to achieve results. Maintain even-handed pressure while turning the key. Open the piece by inserting the edge of a burnishing tool into the open side, then remove the manila folder. Determine if this is the angle of corrugation desired based upon the angle processed through the tool. *****
After the desired pearl placement depth has been reached, heat the pitch to remove the piece. When cool, clean the pitch away from the metal with mineral oil and a cloth. Wash the piece, pickle, then dry. |
Cut a 3 mm length of tubing, file and sand away any rough edges. File the inside of the 3 mm hole before you insert the 3mm tubing. Take care not to file too much material, as this should be a tight fit for soldering. Center the tubing segment horizontally into the drilled hole. Flux both sides of the joint with paste solder, place a hard solder chip on one side of the tubing, and solder the tubing into place. Pickle, wash, and dry. *****
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Pearl Pendant
I find that it is always a good idea to create a paper pattern first. Patterns can be altered throughout the creative process, resulting in a record of how the finished piece was created.
Cut a 2" x 1" square sheet of 32- or 34-gauge sterling silver (or copper if you want to make a practice piece before using the silver).
Draw a center line one-half inch in from the edge, using the extra-fine permanent marker, then gently fold the silver in half along the line. Align the fold edge of the silver with the 2" side of the template, then trace the template onto the silver using the extra-fine permanent marker.
Using hand shears, cut out the template drawn onto the folded silver. Using a file, file away any sharp edges that may have been created during the cutting process. When working with thin metals, wear proper hand protection prior to hand forming. 
Cut a 1" x 2" piece of manila file folder. Slightly open the cut silver piece, and insert the cut segment of manila file folder into the center of the folded silver. (The manila folder allows just enough of a gap for opening the element later on, after corrugation tightens the metal.)
Place the tube wringer on a flat work surface with the key extended beyond the work surface.
(Turning the key away from your hand will result in the metal piece moving towards your hand, while turning the key towards your hand will move the metal back out of the corrugation rollers.) As the piece moves through the rollers, you will be able to determine if the entire piece has been corrugated. If not, return the piece to the rollers, aligning the crests and troughs in the sheet with the rollers, then process it through until unfinished edges are uniform.
Anneal, pickle, then wash and dry the silver piece. Further hand form the piece, opening slightly more, just below the center, to determine placement of the pearl.
Heat a spot in the pitch, then press the back of the piece into the pitch. When the pitch has cooled, use the dapping punch to create an indentation for placement of the pearl. Take care not to have a heavy hand when creating this space as the folded seam may split due to the thinness of the material. Place the pearl in position to determine if a desirable depth has been reached. I use sticky wax to remove the pearl carefully.
Using the center punch, create an indentation where the finished piece will be strung from. At the indent, drill a 3 mm hole which will accommodate the 3 mm tubing. File and clean up both sides of the hole.
To attach the pearl, carefully create a light indentation with the center punch from the inside of the form, and drill a hole with a cone-shaped diamond-coated burr or a #71 drill bit. Carefully file any rough edges on the back side.
Cut a 3û4" length of 24-gauge wire and place this on a charcoal block. Flux and solder a small chip of hard solder onto one end of the wire. Press a small, round indentation into the charcoal block to accommodate the gold granule. Flux the gold granule and align the soldered end of the wire up against the gold granule. Solder them together, heating from the gold granule side. Pickle, wash, and dry thoroughly. Refine the solder joint with sandpaper or file if needed.
Oxidize the larger piece, let dry, then wash and dry thoroughly. Insert the wire, with the granule attached, through the back of the piece and determine the depth required for the pearl. Cut the wire to the desired length. Using epoxy, glue in the pearl. After the epoxy has completely set, you can hang the piece onto a purchased cable. 
