Lapidary Journal: Gems, Beads, Jewelry Making and more

Look for Liz Kuhns' profile of silversmith Sylvia Youell, "Playing With Silver," and Youell's Step-by-Step instructions for making a "Winged Figure" (above right) in the February 2003 issue of Lapidary Journal.

Liz KuhnsLiz Kuhns, G.G., is a professional gemologist, jewelry designer, and photojournalist living in Door County, WI. She can be reached by e-mail: liz@lithogem.com.

Visit our Tool Guide for more articles on tools and equipment.

March 2002's Product Highlights featured Pliers.

Resource Guide: Tools - Pliers

Basic Pliers

Basic Pliers

The basic set of pliers for jewelry manufacturing and the first to aquire when setting up a new work bench, would be the following:

  • Flat nose pliers

  • Round/flat nose pliers

  • Half round/flat nose pliers

  • Chain nose pliers

Almost all jewelry-making techniques can be executed with these four pliers. These tools are not only suitable for fabricating, repairing, and other types of bench work, but also for finer, more delicate work, such as bead stringing. This is a suitable set for hobbyists, craftspeople, and students.

Flat nose pliers:
Suitable for gripping a wider surface, holding items and creating angular bends.

Round/flat nose pliers:
Ideal for wire work, looping and bending, making jump rings, as in the fabricating of the wings in the Step by Step project. Round/flat nose pliers are preferred for curling wire; round-nose pliers will mar or leave dents on the silver wire whereas the round/flat nose pliers will prevent this as the wire is being curled against a bigger surface.

Half round/flat nose pliers:
These pliers can also be used for curling wires, for instance, where more gentle curves are required. However, these pliers are mainly used for shaping or straightening bezel wire correctly, especially useful when the bezel has been accidently pushed over while working on a piece. These pliers are excellent for bringing the bezel ends together into a tight match before soldering.

Using the half-round/flat nose pliers

Chain nose pliers:
Great for getting into small areas and doing delicate work. Closing the pin stem on the back of the Step by Step piece is a good example. This tool is also commonly used for bending, crimping, and forming sheet metal.

Using the half-round/flat nose pliers

 

A silversmith's work can only be as good as the condition of his/her tools. It stands to reason, then, that tools should not be regarded lightly. Great care should be taken in choosing your purchase and in maintaining their condition.
Here follows a short purchasing checklist:

Observing tolerance. Choose your tools for the specific reason they were made and never use them beyond their tolerance level. In other words, do not use your pliers in situations that require more pressure than the tool can handle.

Comfortable handling. Hold the pliers in your hand and feel how it fits into your palm. This should be comfortable to the size of your hands. A person with big hands will find it awkward working with short-handled pliers. An option to consider is tools with plastic-dipped handles. These can provide comfortable work for hours.

Tension springs. Most pliers are designed with a double- or single-leaf tension spring. There are pliers available without springs; however, excellent training goes a long way in the proper handling of such tools. For those unfamiliar with the correct way to hold springless pliers, springs will add ergonomic comfort and resistance control to their pliers.

Precision tips. Ensure that the jaws of the pliers meet precisely and evenly, and grip and hold an object securely. Some pliers are designed with parallel-action jaws. Such pliers will continue to hold an object, even a round one, securely under increasing pressure without letting it slip forwards. Another design is of pliers with one smooth steel jaw and one flat nylon-covered jaw. This is an additional precaution for avoiding marring metal when forming, however, it is not essential.

Jaw length. Short-nosed pliers are more suitable to working on a small scale. Long-nosed pliers are more suitable to bending silver sheet, as the longer the nose, the greater the reach and the longer the bend.

Tip size. Pliers come in different tip sizes. Consider the slimline fine-tipped pliers for delicate, detailed work that cannot be done with the heavier, wider tip size more suitable to fabricating and repairing.

Pliers metal. There are two options available, stainless steel and hardened tool steel pliers. Stainless steel is rust resistant, offering a reasonable bench life. However, the surface condition of the nose has to be monitored and maintained as needed as it will eventually start showing nicks. Stainless steel pliers cannot be forged.

Hardened tool steel is the preferred metal for pliers as it is the hardest, strongest, and longest-lasting material for pliers. These pliers are forged for durability. Work done with these pliers requires less finishing as the nose is not prone to nicking with normal use, therefore producing cleaner work. A major drawback, though, is that the hardened tool steel pliers are prone to rusting. However, taking good care of your pliers, not exposing them to moisture, keeping them lubricated, and wiping them occasionally with a rust inhibitor like Cosmoline or WD-40, can deal with this problem.

Tips on caring for your tools:
Before using brand new tools for the first time, a good precaution is to prepare the tools first. This is done by using a fine sanding stick to soften the edges of the pliers' nose. A second step is to shine up the surface of the nose that will be making contact with the jewelry metal. The reason for these two important steps is to ensure that new tools do not accidentally leave marks on the silver during the fabrication process.


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